Haircare 101: The most important do's and dont's

 

Hair Care Do's and Don'ts

 

Hair do's:

Do- Pre-cleanse your mids and ends with oils and/or conditioner:

This is, hands-down, one of the absolute best things you can do for your hair. I CANNOT EMPHASIZE THIS ENOUGH.

Our hair has a lipid barrier just like our skin. The difference is that it does not have the ability to renew itself once it has been depleted. This is where the pre-cleanse comes in. Laying down a barrier on the cuticle layer restores the hair's natural hydrophobicity and keeps water from seeping in during the shampooing process and dissolving the protein structure of the hair fiber.

If you have: 

Highlighted, Dry, Frizzy, or relaxed hair? Commit to this practice every other wash.

Colored, super long, or tangled hair? Commit to this practice about once every 3 washes. 

Super fine or oily hair? Yep, you need to put this into practice as well. Shoot for every 3-4 washes and make sure you don't get the pre-wash near your root area. For those with super fine hair, you can totally get away with skipping conditioner afterwards.

Do-Exfoliate your scalp:

Give your scalp some of the same attention that you give your face and the rest of your body. There are lots of great scalp scrubs out there. Grab a silicone palm scalp brush and thank me later. More on this in my "hair loss" blog.  

Important: If you have a color appointment stop the use of the palm brush and any exfoliating products for a few days before.

Do-Massage your scalp:

Studies are now emerging that have shown significant improvement in scalp health and hair growth with just some frequent head rubs. Who knew?! Check out why in my "hair loss" blog.

Do-Brush your dry hair with boar bristles:

A true boar bristle brush can be a little expensive (check out Mason Pearson or Oribe) but truly, there is an advantage to this bristle material over nylon. Since the boar bristle has a cuticle itself, it has a polishing effect on our hair when it glides through, giving it a velvety luster.

Do-Use a round brush to curl your hair:

Sure, it takes some coordination and some shoulder stamina, but it is SO much better for the hair than using a curling iron. Pin up the curls as you go and let them cool in place, and you will be surprised at how well they coif once you take the pins out.

Do-Get a smoothing treatment:

If you are someone who is flat ironing more than once per week, do yourself and your hair a favor and get a smoothing treatment. In the long run, it leads to a net positive effect on the health of your hair because there is no longer a need for regular flat ironing. 

Do-Use silk pillowcases:

These are great for your skin and your hair because the silk does not abrade or cause friction against your tossing and turning. Check out "Slip."

Do-Use a no-poo on occasion:

Let me be clear, lather-free cleansers are NOT replacements for shampoo (learn why here) but if you had a great workout today but shampooed your hair yesterday morning, using a lather-less cleanser will ensure that you aren’t stripping too much of your natural lipid barrier. It will feel different at first, and you might not feel like your hair is clean, but using a lather-free cleanser every now and then will go a long way to protecting the integrity of your hair fiber and hair color.

 

Hair don'ts:

Don't-Shampoo every day:

This is, hands-down, one of the absolute WORST things you can do for your hair. I CANNOT EMPHASIZE THIS ENOUGH.

WATER IS ENEMY NUMBER ONE! Leave some hair in a bucket of water, and it will turn to mush in a week or two. It is the universal solvent after all. A day-long frolic in a swimming pool can wreak havoc on the condition of both your hair and your skin, but the difference is, your body can restore the barrier that protects your skin.

 

Don't-Put your hair up wet: 

When hair is wet, the bonds within its proteins are weakened. As it dries, these bonds begin pulling back together again. If this process occurs while the hair is tightly bound, whatever shape the hair is in while it dries gets semi-permanently set into it. This sharp kink that occurs at the point where the hair gets bound becomes a weak spot where the proteins fray and the hair rips open and breaks off. DON’T DO IT.

Don't-Aggressively brush or comb wet hair:

As we have established, hair is weaker when it is wet. ABOUT 60 TIMES WEAKER!! I will leave it at that. BTW The wet brush is not the answer. Get one of these magical brushes instead.

Don't-Give up on sulfates:

If you have fallen for the sulfate-shaming campaign on trend at the moment and have tossed all of your foaming shampoos, then LISTEN UP! This may become a problem for you. Read more about that here.

Don't-Flat iron your own hair:

It may seem frivolous but if you feel like you need to use a flat iron more often than 3 or 4 times per month, it would be best to outsource it to a professional. The stylist knows what size section to take and where to focus their efforts and at what speed to pass the iron. Better yet, see about getting a traction smoother like the Brazilian Blowout or a keratin like GK.

If this is not an option for you then follow these tips: "PTLS" (Protect, thin, low. and steady)

   Use a heat protectant, take sections no wider than a finger, turn the temp no higher than 350, and make sure to keep the iron moving.

Don't-Give yourself an aggressive towel dry:

It always surprises me when I see someone aggressively toweling off their hair. The back-and-forth motion of the cotton fiber against the hair fiber rips up the surface of the hair.

Don't-Expect your stylist to fix everything:

Remember this mantra: 85% at home 15% in the salon. This is how much influence YOU have over the health of your hair. (Same goes for your skin)

Don't-Over-use your products:

Rolling around in a vat of your favorite bond builder will not give you superpowers. It will only increase the likelihood of developing a case of accumulative irritation and/or histamine response. 

Conclusion

 

Adopting the right hair care practices is not just about enhancing your appearance; it's also about maintaining the health and integrity of your hair over the long term. By following the dos and avoiding the don'ts outlined above, you can protect your hair from unnecessary damage and keep it looking its best. Remember, the key to beautiful hair is not just the products you use, but also how you handle it on a daily basis. With the right approach, you can enjoy lustrous, healthy hair that truly complements your individual style. 

 

Now please, go and have yourself a Quality Hair Day!

MBM

Please leave comments or questions and we can keep the conversation going.