The Primary Culprit: UV Damage and Expression

Research has consistently shown that sun damage is responsible for approximately 80% of visible signs of aging. Sunscreen will help to prevent more damage, however, what can be done about existing damage?

What to Do About It:

Level 1 skintervention: Prevention and mild correction.

* illumenase has you covered where you see the asterisk.

• Retexturizers*
• humectants*
• exfoliants
• sunscreen.

It's never too late to begin a retexturizing regimen. For a beginner, the best way to begin treating your fine lines and wrinkles is to pick up a glycolic cleanser to use a couple times per week and a product like illumenase that is packed with humectants. These ingredients can help to plump the skin from within by encouraging the skin to retain moisture.

And, of course, you must wear sunscreen! 80% of the signs of ageing are attributed to sun exposure! Sure, we need vitamin D but leave that up to other body parts besides the face. It sees enough already.

Level 1 and 2 skintervention: Prevention and Active Correction.

• Retexturizers*
• humectants*
• exfoliants
• sunscreen.

AND

• Retinoids (Guide to using retinoids with success)

In addition to the above, add a Retinoid into your Skin cycle. Applying a retinoid in the evening, layered over a product like Illumenase, can gradually reverse sun damage, thicken the dermis, and rejuvenate collagen. This process requires patience; it might take anywhere from six months to a year to start seeing visible improvements. Consider this an investment in your future-self.

Level 1, 2, and 3 skintervention: Prevention and Advanced Correction.

• Retexturizers*
• humectants*
• exfoliants
• sunscreen.

AND

• Retinoids

AND

• Lasers
• Peels
• Needling
• Neurological intervention

Place your beautiful skin in the hands of a professional. A skilled aesthetician can utilize a range of treatments, including lasers, micro-needling, and peels, which actively boost collagen production and fibroblast response. When combined with a consistent home skincare regimen from levels 1 and 2, results can be noticeable in as little as three months.

Which of these treatments are for you?

All three of these treatments are effective, but the choice largely depends on your skin's melanin content. Individuals with deeply melanated skin might experience hypopigmentation from laser treatments. It's crucial to find an experienced professional who can tailor treatments to your specific needs. Micro-needling is suitable for both heavily and lightly melanated skin.

And for those of you who have developed 11's, crows feet, or horizontal lines across your forehead, Botox, Dysport, or Daxxify are great options for you.

Related articles:

1. Retinoid tips, tricks, and hacks.
2. Guide to Skin-Cycling

The Primary Culprit: Time, and/or irregular exfoliating routine.

But you say “I’ve been moisturizing every day of my life!” Dinna fash!, we aren't trying to routine-shame you. For most people, moisturizer alone is not enough. As we become wiser, our skin becomes deficient in a number of essential compounds and loses some of it's ability to renew itself. Luckily this is one of the easier challenges to overcome.

What to do about it:

Level 1 skintervention: Prevention and mild correction.

* illumenase has you covered where you see the asterisk.

• Enzymes*
• Tyrosinase inhibitors*
• Antioxidants*
• AHA's

Find a product like illumenase, that has enzymes and brightening ingredients like Alpha-Arbutin, Niacinamide, and Vitamin-C. Look for a mild cleanser that contains AHA's like Glycolic or Lactic acid. Use them regularly and over time, a fresh glow will begin to emerge.

Level 1 and 2 skintervention: Prevention and Active Correction.

• Enzymes*
• Tyrosinase inhibitors*
• Antioxidants*
• AHA's

AND

• Retinoids
• Peptides

In addition to helping with almost everything else, a retinoid regimen will help clear up dullness and enliven your skin-tone. Cycling in some rejuvenating peptides will enhance your routine even more. It is important that you know what skincare products you can layer and which you can't so check out the blog!

Level 1, 2, and 3 skintervention:
Prevention and Advanced Correction.

• Enzymes*
• Tyrosinase inhibitors*
• Antioxidants*
• AHA's

AND

• Retinoids
• Peptides

AND

• Lasers
• Peels
• Dermabrasion
• Home devices.

Lasers like fractional CO2 and YAG are suitable for lighter skin. If you have melanated skin, look for a provider that works with chemical peels, dermabrasion or dermaplaning. If you are diligent enough, using a home device like the Tria beauty laser can dramatically improve the tone and texture of your skin. If you are the spa type, (Who isn't?) look for a provider that uses Repechage. The facial treatments are the bees knees!

Related articles:

1. Retinoids: tips, tricks, and hacks
2. Your guide to Vitamin C
3. Your guide to skin-cycling

The Primary Culprit: Genetics, weight loss,  and UV damage.

Sun damage accounts for most of the signs of aging but seeking out the culprit for our sagging skin is a little more complicated and may require a quick look at the family photo album. Look at photos of your parents when they were younger. Which of them do you look most like? If there is a clear answer, then take a look at them now or pictures of them later in life. Notice the areas where they droop and where they showed a loss of volume. Now you have an idea as to what you are up against. However, this does not have to be your future my friend!  Recent weight loss can also lead to excess skin and sagging.  This too, can be managed.

What to do about it:

Level 1 skintervention: Mild Prevention

• Oral peptides
• Retinoids
• Sun Protection

I know, mild prevention doesn't sound very sexy, but this is one of the tougher challenges to overcome so I am just setting expectations here. Sagging skin is a little tricky to manage at home without a device but do whatever you can to build up your collagen and fibroblast cells, especially in your challenge areas that you have already identified by looking at your parent.

Retinoids

Beginning a Retinoid routine is essential here and will help to slow the sag but you should not expect any reversal. Still, your future-self from this universe will thank you for using them.

Oral Collagen Peptides

When it comes to collagen peptides, I myself, have been skeptical in the past, HOWEVER, peer reviewed studies keep popping up that suggest that they do make a marked improvement in areas such as skin hydration, elasticity, and firmness. Hey who am I to argue with the scientific method?  I sure did go out and buy me some.  

Sunscreen

I am not "mansplaining" sunscreen to you. Just remember that sun damage accounts for 80% of the signs of ageing. mkay?

Level 1 and 2 skintervention: Prevention and Some Correction.

• Oral peptides
• Retinoids
• Sun Protection

AND

• Home devices

In addition to using retinoids, peptides, and sun protection, consider getting yourself a home device to at least get you started in the right direction.

There is a lot to unpack here so head over to the blog where I demystify treatments for sagging skin and give you pointers about locating a quality home device.

Level 1, 2, and 3 skintervention: Moderate to Advanced correction

• Oral peptides
• Retinoids
• Sun Protection

AND

• Home devices

AND

• Get a pro involved.  

There is too much that needs saying for me to get it all in this collapsable row so please head over to the blog for more.

Related Articles:

1. Sagging Skin: and what to do about it.
2. A guide to Retinoids

The Primary Culprit: irritants.

There has always been a debate whether sensitive skin is an inherited trait. Check out my blog where I come to a pretty profound conclusion about this, but if you notice symptoms such as a rash, redness, or increased sensitivity, it may indicate that you're encountering a substance to which your skin has developed an intolerance. Identifying potential irritants can be challenging, as it often takes years of exposure before an intolerance manifests. Additionally, reactions can vary significantly from one person to another. Relying solely on "buzzwords" like "hypoallergenic" or "for sensitive skin" can be misleading. Many products marketed for sensitive skin still contain one or more irritants. It's crucial to become adept at reading ingredient lists and to consult a professional who can help you employ an elimination strategy. This approach will assist you in pinpointing the specific substances that irritate your skin.

What to do about it:

Level 1 skintervention: correction

• Avoidance

Employ a product elimination strategy: Until you see an improvement in your symptoms, you must cease the use of every product that contains a fragrance or botanical!

Learn how to identify these substances here.

This includes but is not limited to:  

Shampoo, conditioner, laundry detergent, face wash, cologne and perfumes, fabric softener, any natural soaps (this is a big one), make-up, sunscreen, personal hygiene products, fabric sprays, sun-less tanning products, leave-in conditioners, hair sprays, gels, pomades, etc.

Level 1 and 2 skintervention: correction

• Avoidance

AND

• Reintroduction

Simply reintroduce your other products one at a time, weekly, to isolate the offending product.

Level 1, 2, and 3 skintervention: Correction and Prevention via education

• Avoidance

AND

• Reintroduction

AND

• Phone or email a professional.

Once you have identified the problem product via the product elimination strategy, reach out to us or your dermatologist (or both) and we will assist in dissecting the ingredient list, identifying potential culprits, and helping you create a personalized list of ingredients to avoid.

Related articles:

1. "What skincare ingredients to avoid",
2. " Sensitive Skin, Cause or effect?"
3. "Why natural soap is a nope
4. Employing a product elimination strategy.
5. Fragrance, an unhealthy obsession.
6. How to read an ingredient label

The Primary Culprit: Time and/or irregular routine

Even if you have been applying moisturizer every single day your whole life, at some point it isn't enough. As we wisen up our skin cells slow down. This can lead to build up and uneven texture. The goal is to get them going again.

What to do about it:

Level 1 skintervention: moderate correction and prevention.

* illumenase has you covered where you see the asterisk.

• Keratolytics*
• AHA's
• Humectants*
• Occlusives.

Keratolytics*

Urea is your friend, my friend. Relax, this substance is no longer extracted from mammalian urine. It is synthesized in a lab and is in pure form without contaminants. Read more about synthesized ingredients here. Urea is a powerhouse skin-identical ingredient that softens, conditions, hydrates, and facilitates product absorption.

AHA's:

Glycolic acid, the AHA with the smallest molecular weight, will not only gradually improve texture, but it also acts as a humectant, killing 2 birds with one stone. Use it separately from your other products. A glycolic cleanser is a great choice. Oh, and it might sting. You will be ok. A couple minutes of sting will be rewarded with days of glowing skin.

Humectants*and enzymes*

Other humectants like Hyaluronic Acid, N-Acetyl Glucosamine, and enzymes like papain and bromelain make a great support system for your retexturizing routine.

Occlusives

To top it all off, use a moisturizer with an occlusive nature (this is 99% of moisturizers) to trap in moisture and support your barrier. Find out what occlusive ingredients to look for.

Level 1 and 2 skintervention: Correction

• Keratolytics*
• AHA's
• Humectants*
• Occlusives.

AND

• Skin cycling (find out what that is here)

Give your skin some variety with a skin cycle. A routine that incorporates chemical exfoliants, peptides, retinoids and barrier enhancing antioxidant packed products like illumenase will, over time, endow you with a coveted glow.

Level 1, 2, and 3 skintervention: Advanced Correction

• Keratolytics*
• AHA's
• Humectants*
• Occlusives.

AND

• Skin cycling (find out what that is here)

AND

• Lasers
• Peels
• Dermaplaning

Find an aesthetician that uses medical grade peels like the Jessner, or Blue Peel. If you have a lighter skin tone, you can opt for a non-ablative fractional CO2 laser treatment that will also help with fine lines. If you would like a more spa-like experience, find a Repechage provider near you and ask for the Vita Cura facial then thank me later.

Related Articles:

1. Natural vs Synthetic: A balanced view
2. How to read an ingredient list
3. A guide to skin cycling

The Primary Culprit: UV damage, inflammation, and hormones

Yep, the sun is enemy #1 once again, however, whether or not you experience challenges with hyperpigmentation largely depends on genetic and hormonal factors. This makes treating hyperpigmentation and melasma quite a challenge. For you DIYers out there you should know that sometimes dark splotches (PIH) can show up as a result of over-treating your skin with home devices or chemical peels so be careful!

What to do about it:

Level 1 skintervention: Prevention

* illumenase has you covered where you see the asterisk.

• Sunscreen and Hats

Everyone should be wearing sunscreen on their face but for those who experience melasma and don't like it, it's not an option.

Chemical or Mineral?

Both of these will protect you from UV rays in their own fabulous ways. Melanocytes, however, are activated by the visible light spectrum as well. After-all it is their job to absorb it. Unfortunately, the only way to keep them from being activated by light is to block that light by putting yourself in "mime-face" with a mineral sunscreen that contains zinc or titanium dioxide. Who knows? maybe you'll bring Geisha back in style.

Level 1 and 2 skintervention: Prevention and mild correction

• Sunscreen and Hats

AND

• Tyrosinase inhibitors*
• Antioxidants*
• Anti-inflammatory ingredients*.

In addition to a solid sunscreen routine, look for products that contain tyrosinase inhibitors like Alpha Arbutin and Glutathione, antioxidants like Vitamin C, and inflammation zappers like Niacinamide. Using an antioxidant product like illumenase underneath your sunscreen improves its performance.

Level 1,2, and 3 skintervention: Advanced correction

• Sunscreen and Hats

AND

• Tyrosinase inhibitors*
• Antioxidants*
• Anti-inflammatory ingredients*.

AND

• Endocrinologists
• Specialized
  Dermatologists
• Intravenous therapies and microinjections.

Remember this ingredient name: Tranexamic Acid. I bet my left middle toe that you will be hearing much more about this medication turned melasma therapy. In addition to being applied topically, Tranexamic acid can be delivered intravenously along with glutathione. This therapy has been shown to significantly reduce the appearance of melasma and dark spots all over the body by interfering with the tyrosinase enzyme systemically. Melasma can also be treated locally with tiny micro injections of Tranexamic acid and glutathione. illumenase contains effective concentrations of both ingredients btw.

Related Articles

1. Effective concentrations explained

The main culprit: Likely a combination of hereditary, environmental, and lifestyle factors.

The theory is that people who suffer from rosacea have a genetic predisposition to having an inflammatory response to their own microbiome. We don't know why some people react and some don't or what causes the imbalance to begin with, but we do know some of the triggers. Spicy foods, alcohol, stress and even sunlight can exacerbate the condition.

What to do about it.

Level 1 skintervention: Avoidance and barrier protection

* illumenase has you covered where you see the asterisk.

• Ceramides*
• Anti-inflammatory ingredients*
• Gentle, fragrance-free synthetic cleansers and moisturizers

Rosacea flareup triggers can vary from person to person. Be aware of what affects you and try your best to avoid it. When it comes to skincare, less is more. Use a gentle low or no foaming cleanser and a product like illumenase with inflammation zappers and barrier-enhancing ingredients.

Level 1 and 2 skintervention: Mild Correction and symptom
mitigation.

• Ceramides*
• Anti-inflammatory ingredients*
• Gentle, fragrance-free synthetic cleansers and moisturizers.

AND

• Sulfur
• Azelaic Acid
• Tranexamic acid*

For those who can tolerate it, an occasional sulfur mask can help clear up any superficial bumps you might be experiencing. Look for products that have azelaic acid or tranexamic acid. You can even get a scrip for azelaic acid all the way up to 20%. Tranexamic acid is most effective for rosacea when taken orally AND used topically in a product, like illumenase, that has an effective concentration of it at 3%. Oral tranexamic acid is available over the counter for now. Something tells me that because it works so well, the FDA will pull it from the market for drug trials at some point.

Level 1, 2, and 3 skintervention: Advanced Correction

• Ceramides*
• Anti-inflammatory ingredients*
• Gentle, fragrance-free synthetic cleansers and moisturizers.

AND

• Sulfur
• Azelaic Acid
• Tranexamic acid*

AND

• V-Beam laser and blue light
• Metronidazole
• Oral antibiotics

Before resorting to topical and/or oral antibiotics, consider trying a series of blue light and V-beam treatments. Bacteria doesn't flourish well in the presence of blue light and the the V-beam laser Can be very effective at combating the inflammation but you need to read the blog first.

When you've exhausted your efforts look into some medicated treatments for your rosacea. Metronidazole is a topical anti-microbial that is available over the counter in some jurisdictions. Consider topical antibiotic treatments as a last resort as they further disrupt the function of your microbiome and can worsen your condition in the long run. A dermatologist may also recommend a round of Doxycycline.

Important: you cannot get any laser treatments while you are taking antibiotics or using topical antibiotics. A waiting period of 1 month is recommended.

Related Articles:

1. The secret to combatting rosacea.

The Main Culprit: It's complicated.

Breakout prone skin is a beast all on its own. Dealing with it can take a toll on an individual both physically and emotionally. The sufferer often gets caught in a vicious cycle of inflammation and symptom mitigation. What actually causes it? Hormones? Genetics? A modern lifestyle? The answer is not as simple as you would like it to be.

What to do about it.

First you need to determine whether your condition is bacterial or fungal.

Truly, this can be hard to tell sometimes so I always recommend talking to a pro if there is any doubt.

Here are some common identifiers for each.

Bacterial:

• Red, randomly sized, sometimes painful bumps that tend to be located on the cheeks, forehead, chest and back areas.

Fungal:

• Small, uniformly sized, sometimes itchy, red bumps often located on the hairline, back, chest or other areas of the body that remain covered and moist for long periods of time. This can include chin strap and brow zones for people wearing helmets.

Level 1 skintervention: some symptom mitigation.

Bacterial

• Avoid inflammatory foods and irritants
• begin understanding your condition.

Fungal

• Keep skin dry, regularly change undergarments and sterilize helmets and chin-straps.

Level 1 and 2 skintervention: Symptom mitigation, possibly some reversal.

Bacterial:

• Avoid inflammatory foods and irritants
• begin understanding your condition.

AND

• Adapalene
• See your dermatologist
• High frequency devices
• blue light therapy

Start an Adapalene regimen sooner rather than later. It is now available OTC. It takes a long time to start working so the sooner you start the better. Your derm will be proud of you for being so proactive. Avoid using it directly on active bumps. Learn more about retinoids

Consider purchasing an led device that produces blue light. The bacteria that leads to this condition does not proliferate as well in it's presence. A high frequency device can help to reduce bacterial proliferation on existing bumps.

Fungal:

• Keep skin dry, regularly change undergarments and sterilize helmets and chin-straps.

AND

• Ketoconozole
• Selenium Sulfide
• Pyrithione Zinc
• Blue light
• High Frequency devices

Nizoral, Selsum blue and Anti-dandruff shampoos like head and shoulders are examples of brand names that contain these medications. They can be used anywhere on the body as rinse-off cleansers.

Level 1,2 and 3 skintervention: Advanced Correction

Bacterial:

• Avoid inflammatory foods and irritants
• begin understanding your condition.

AND

• Adapalene
• See your dermatologist
• blue light therapy

AND

• Isotretinoin

This drug is a doozy so make sure you understand the possible side effects. For most, an isotretinoin cycle clears up their condition.

Fungal:

• Keep skin dry, regularly change undergarments and sterilize helmets and chin-straps.

AND

• Ketoconozole
• Selenium Sulfide
• Pyrithione Zinc
• Blue light
• High Frequency devices

AND

• See your derm for some oral and topical anti-fungals.

When all else fails:

Bacterial Acne can be extremely persistent some of us have resorted to more extreme measures to combat it. I am not providing any medical advice here. I am simply telling you that sometimes solutions are found outside of the box you are in.

Level 1, 2, 3, and 4 skintervention for bacterial acne.

• Avoid inflammatory foods and irritants
• begin understanding your condition.

AND

• Adapalene
• See your dermatologist
• blue light therapy

AND

• Isotretinoin

AND

• Advanced metabolic therapies

This one is too complex for this dropdown. Head over to the blog.

Related Articles:

1. Acne: What causes it and what to do about it.

The Primary Culprit: inherited and/or induced Biochemical imbalances.

There are many factors that influence skin conditions such as eczema, and psoriasis. We are still learning more every day, but growing evidence points toward imbalances in micro-biotic flora as a common denominator.

Modern medicine has gotten pretty good at treating the symptoms of these conditions, but what about the cause? There is ongoing research on the subject, but evidence suggests that our modern cleanliness routines are partly to blame.  Read about the detrimental effects of natural soaps here.

What to do about it

Level 1 skintervention: symptom management.

* illumenase has you covered where you see the asterisk.

• Ceramides*
• fragrance-free skincare*
• Less is more, avoid natural soaps and fragrances

Switch to synthetic, fragrance-free cleanser and use a treatment product like illumenase rich with ceramides and skin-identical ingredients to help restore biochemical balance.

Level 1 and 2 skintervention: symptom mitigation and moderate
correction.

• Ceramides*
• fragrance-free skin care
• Less is more, avoid natural soaps and fragrances

AND

• Skin-identical ingredients*
• Ceramides*
• Pre-biotic topicals*
• Tazarotene.

Skin-identical ingredients are compounds that are already found in healthy skin. Sometimes when ours is compromised, the topical addition of some of these compounds can help restore biochemical balance. This state of "skintentment" is the optimal environment for our probiotic flora to flourish and keep the detrimental bacteria from proliferating out of control and triggering a response from our bodies in the form of itchy, irritated, patches. Every single ingredient in illumenase plays a part in restoring the biochemical balance of your largest organ. If imbalance is linked to atopy then logic would dictate that once “skintentment” is achieved, instances of these atopic conditions should reduce in severity and occurrence, right? Check out the reviews and see what people are saying and draw your own skin-clusions!

And we must not forget the Retinoid of the day! Tazarotene is a synthetic retinoid that targets specific receptors in our skin cells to normalize cellular differentiation. A process can improve conditions like psoriasis especially.

Level 1, 2, and 3 intervention: Clinical correction

• Ceramides*
• fragrance-free skin care
• Less is more, avoid natural soaps and fragrances

AND

• Skin-identical ingredients*
• Ceramides*
• Pre-biotic topicals*
• Tazarotene.

AND

• Steroids
• Immunosuppressants

If your condition is moderate to severe, it may be time to see your doctor. They may prescribe you topical steroids or immunosuppressant drugs which come with their own set of challenges but if it helps you manage your symptoms then the other steps you have already taken, have a greater chance of taking hold and
turning things around for the long run.

Related Articles:

1. Why natural is not always better.
2. Fragrance: the unhealthy obsession.
3. Your guide to retinoids.

The Culprit: Genetics, Hormones

Oily skin can be somewhat challenging to deal with, especially when it is accompanied by breakouts. Sometimes the pores on the tip of your nose look as though you could drive a car through them and if you wash your skin more often than you already do, you end up feeling oily and dry all at the same time.

What to do about it:

Level 1 skintervention: Moderate correction over time

* illumenase has you covered where you see the asterisk.

• Double Cleansing for Oily skin
• BHA's
• Oil free moisture*.

Double cleansing is a method where, before you get your skin wet, you massage in an oil cleanser followed by a rinse and then a foaming BHA cleanser. You say "You want me to do whaaaaat?" Listen very carefully to what I have to say.

Oil solubilizes (dissolves) oil. Water repels it.

This means that if you have a day worth of oil and makeup on your skin and you splash water onto your face, you are setting that mixture into your skin because it doesn't have anywhere else to go but deeper into your pores!

Look for a foaming oil cleanser like Laroche Posay or Cera-Ve and apply it directly to your dry skin. (natural soaps are not reccomended) Massage it in for a minute or so and then add some water to activate the surfactant. Rinse, then follow with a cleanser that contains a BHA like salicylic acid giving special attention to your oiliest areas.

It is very important that you provide moisture loving humectants to oily skin. Sometimes when skin has lost some of it's ability to hold on to water, it overcompensates by churning out more oil. Serums are your friend! They tend to have less occlusive ingredients, or in the case of illumenase, there are none. This is ideal for someone like you because essentially, you are making your own occlusive, however, as we have established, you may have some less oily areas. In these zones, you may need a little dab of a classic moisturizer that contains an occlusive ingredient like shea, dimethicone, or petrolatum.

Level 1 and 2 skintervention:

• Double Cleansing for Oily skin
• BHA's
• Oil free moisture*.

AND

• Clay masks.
• blotting sheets.

Over time, your new routine of double cleansing, using your illumenase, and selectively treating with an occlusive will help balance out your oil production. However, on special occasions, you may need to use a clay mask in the morning and/or carry some blotting sheets with you. Especially if they are going to use a flash!

Level 1, 2, and 3 skintervention: Advanced Correction

• Double Cleansing for Oily skin
• BHA's
• Oil free moisture*.

AND

• Clay masks.
• Blotting sheets.

AND

• Adapalene
• Tretinoin
• BHA peels
• Botox micro-injections.

Adapalene, now available over the counter and Tretinoin, which is available only by prescription are retinoids that help to increase cellular turnover and thin the stratum corneum. One of the side effects of using a retinoid regularly is reduced oil production.  Learn more about retinoids here.

Ask your aesthetician about getting a BHA peel. Beta Hydroxy's like salicylic acid are quite good at solubilizing excess oils and a professional treatment doesn't just de-slick you, it will make you glow as well.

If all else fails, head over to see your dermatologist who can give you superficial microinjections of Botox to slow the production of oil.

Stay diligent and you will be less shiny and more glowy!

Related Articles:

1. Why natural is not always better
2. A guide to retinoids.