Your Guide to Skin-Cycling
Skin-cycle- The amount of time it takes for a keratinocyte to journey from the dermis to the stratum corneum. This occurs every 25-30 days for people in their 20's and 30's and begins slowing in the 40's. A person in their 60's has a skin cycle that takes anywhere between 60-90 days. Whether it is closer to 60 or 90 depends on the individual's routine.
Skin-Cycling- A skincare methodology that emphasizes a cyclical routine that consists of heavy, medium, and light workload periods for the skin. The goal is to optimize skin renewal.
Google “Skin-cycling” and you will be inundated with articles talking about this trend. The thing is, IT ISN’T A TREND, IT IS COMMON SENSE. Chances are, you already do it to some degree without even realizing it! For the purposes of this blog, (and for my amusement) I am going to lay this out from the perspective of a personified keratinocyte. Of course, her name is Kara.
Kara works hard at her double full-time job. She works all day and all night to provide a steady supply of lipids and proteins that preserve our acid mantle. Ya know, the only thing between us and the big, bad world. She makes the protein that forms the network of flexible proteins that heal our wounds and in response to light radiation, she calls in support from melanocytes so that your innards are protected. Kara never takes time off so as her employer, you need to make sure that you balance out her workload by making sure she is rewarded with some bonuses and benefits. ESPECIALLY SINCE SHE WILL EVENTUALLY SACRIFICE HERSELF FOR YOU!
Heavy workload periods
Chemical exfoliation vs Physical
When faced with a challenge, Kara responds better to bond-softening chemical exfoliation that provides some orderly deconstruction rather than physical scrubs that just blast everything to bits. AHA’s like Glycolic, Lactic, Mandelic acid, and BHA’s like Salicylic acid give her a challenge that can be managed with a few late nights at the office. If you are a benevolent boss, you will toss in a little Azelaic Acid as a “keep up the good work” challenge.
Note: I am aware of the fact that professional strength peels like Jessner, Trichloroacetic, and high percentage AHA and BHA peels are now being made available to the public for some ungodly reason. DO NOT TRY THESE AT HOME. Pop in once a month and let your aesthetician handle this for you.
Photo-renewal:
Whether you choose to use a home device like Tria or an in-office treatment like a fractional, Kara will need some time to manage the chaos created when photons barge in and vaporize water molecules within her protective barrier. The good news is that the very specific wavelengths generated by these devices reach a uniform depth which means she can organize a targeted restoration effort, backed by her fibroblast support system.
Keep this in mind:
Under extreme duress Kara might turn to her sometimes-over-protective melanocyte defense system which tends to overcompensate for damage by generating a wall of light absorbing granules called melanin that may result in areas of lingering hyperpigmentation. Leave the deep peels and lasers to the pro's.
Note: People with melanated skin need to be very careful with any procedure involving laser. There is a risk of Hypopigmentation where the melanocytes absorb enough energy that it destroys them resulting in unprotected areas of skin. See a reputable provider.
Here is an EXAMPLE of a 7-day skin-cycle.
This cycle will not be appropriate for everyone. If you have recently had any professional resurfacing peels or laser treatments, you will need to adjust your cycle accordingly. Reach out to us and we can help you build your cycle.
Night 1 Heavy workload: exfoliation focus
- Cleanse: Foaming SA wash. 2x on oily areas
- Treat: Chemical exfoliation
- Protect: hyaluronic acid and Occlusive Moisturizer
Day 1: Niacinamide, hyaluronic acid and vitamin C focus
- Rinse: Use face wash only on oily areas.
- Treat: Essential- Hyaluronic serum, Niacinamide (illumenase covers both of these). Optional-Non copper peptides and Vitamin C (illumenase has this covered too).
- Protect: Moisturizer and sunscreen
Medium Workload Periods
Contrary to popular misconception, retinoids like Tretinoin and Retinol are NOT exfoliants. They are compounds that are, or are synthesized into metabolic enhancing, biochemical modulators. Learn more here. This may be hard for you to wrap your head around, but Kara knows exactly how to respond to such challenges by optimizing metabolic pathways which result in accelerated cellular genesis; a process that spawns a steady supply of healthy, optimized dermal cells which over time, plumps the dermis. Keep in mind, however, that this thickening of the dermis leads to a subsequent thinning of the stratum corneum (barrier layer formed by sacrificed Kara’s) so you will need SUN PROTECTION. It is not an option!
Night 2, 3, and 5 Medium workload periods: Retinoid focus
- Cleanse: gentle synthetic low or no foaming cleanser
- Treat & Protect: Retinoid "Sandwich".
Day 2,3, and 5: Niacinamide, hyaluronic acid and vitamin C focus
- Cleanse: Low or no foaming synthetic cleanser
- Treat: Vitamin C, Hyaluronic Acid( illumenase has these covered) Optional: Niacinamide (illumenase) and NON copper peptides.
- Protect: Moisturizer and sunscreen.
.
Light workload periods
Peptides consist of amino acids that serve as signals that tell cells to perform certain tasks like expunging inflammation, increasing collagen renewal, and altering metabolic pathways. Think of them functioning as a cellular to-do list.
Important: Vitamin C acts as a redox agent on GHK-Cu (copper peptides) corrupting its function. Avoid using them together at the same time topically.
Nights 4 and 6 Light workload periods: Peptide focus
- Cleanse: Gentle synthetic cleanser
- Treat: Copper and other Peptides
- Protect: moisturizer and sunscreen
Days 4 and 6: Peptide focus
- Rinse: Use a low or no foam on oiliest areas
- Treat: Copper and other Peptides, Hyaluronic acid,
- Protect: Moisturizer and sunscreen
Bonuses and Perks:
The occasional spa day is the perfect reward for a job well done and Kara will not forget it anytime soon. In fact, you can reap rewards from a really good facial for weeks and weeks. Don’t underestimate the power of a skilled aesthetician. Find a provider that uses Repechage and thank me later.
To keep Kara happy and functioning optimally, provide her with the proper nutrients internally as well as externally. Stick to your cycle and as she marches toward her inevitable fate as a dead protective surface cell, she will be proud of a job well done.
Now I would like all of you to please, Have a Quality Day
MBM
Please leave any questions or comments below and keep the conversation going!
